The Purbeck Hills, Dorset - 31 March 2003

Distance:

36 km (approx 22.5 miles)

Time:

approx 3¼ hrs. (riding time)

Map:

Outdoor Leisure 15

Parking:

Layby at Ulwell (SZ 020810)

Refreshments:

"The Scott Arms", Kingston (SY 957797) (Note), "The Square and Compass", Worth Matravers (SY 975775) plus other pubs and cafes in Corfe Castle and Swanage.

Two weeks of warm, very unexpected sunshine and the end of winter time with the start of British Summer Time were just two of the reasons to revisit the Purbecks virtually a year after our last visit. The other reason was to celebrate the eve of the start of our new annual holiday entitlement! Oh, and it's a lovely place to go!

Click on the map for the full route
Click
for the full map (145Kb). The numbers refer to the location of the photographs.

The route, shown in blue above, is as plotted by the Garmin Etrex GPS mounted on the handlebars of my bike.

Gradient profile:

Gradient profile
At the start On top of Branscombe Hill The gang
(1) At the start. Judy & Steve in discussion. Duncan has just been showing a passing cyclist his new helmet. (85Kb) (2) The lung-busting climb up on to Nine Barrow Down leads to 5km of descent to Corfe (the Castle is just visible) (52Kb) (3) Steve, Gordon, Duncan, Judy, me and Dave on top of Ridgeway Hill. (68Kb)
Looking back Swyre Head Swyre Head
(4) The view back towards Ridgeway Hill and the Army firing ranges. (51Kb) (5) Duncan on top of the mound at Swyre Head. Dave is on his way into the gorse! (64Kb) (5) The more sensible riders take a rest and enjoy the superb views while Dave and Duncan play. (107Kb)
Dave's dive On top of Branscombe Hill
(5) Dave assesses the situation before taking the plunge. Lovely views of Dorset coast and the Isle of Portland. (69Kb) (5) Meanwhile, Duncan sees if falling off his bike is like falling off a log. Luckily, his new helmet remains untouched. (73Kb)

From the layby, go back along the road 100m or so and take the bridleway on the R and climb all the way to the top of Nine Barrow Down. I managed to go about 200m before getting off and pushing!

Once at the top, the views are fabulous all round, with the panorama of Poole Bay on the R, Corfe and its Castle straight ahead and the Purbecks Hills off the L. Carry on from the top, descending gentle at first and then more steeply into Corfe itself. Emerge on to a minor road, pass under the railway bridge and stop at a major road before turning R.

Continue on the major road heading NW. At the roundabout, continue straight on for a very short distance before turning L on to an access road running parallel to a main road and then L through a farm and caravan site. Enter a wooded area. This can be quite wet and boggy at most times of the year at first but then after passing over a wooden bridge by a pond, it is dry again and a pleasant flattish stretch before the next challenge!

At the minor road, turn L, now heading S, and the next challenge soon presents itself! Climb up the hill and, at the top, turn R through a gateway to continue on a bridleway uphill and heading W. The views are tremendous once again. Pass through a gateway on the L (which it where the team photo (loc 3) was taken) and continue still heading W but with the fence now on the R. At another gate, the path levels off thankfully and there's about 1.5km of superb track, passing the peculiar Grange Arch. This was built as part of the Creech House estate in 1745, apparently to give the owner of the house something to look at from his windows!

Immediately before the road and car park, turn L to head S on another bridleway. It's worth stopping to admire the views. Straight ahead, in the distance, can be seen the climb leading on towards Swyre Head. Still, there's a cracking descent to go first! The bridleway drops steeply and there is a sharp RH bend, another steep descend and a road at bottom so great care is needed. At the road, turn L. Where the road turns L, continue straight on to a farm access track.

Pass through the and on to one of the hardest parts of the route. Even Duncan had to walk his bike at this point. The track is extremely rocky and very steep. Pass through one gate and continue to climb, now heading SW, to another gate. Straight ahead can usually be seen the red warning flags of the Army's Lulworth firing range. They do open their paths to walkers usually during school holidays but there does not appear to be any obvious bike routes. Our route is generally SE towards the highest point in the area, Swyre Head (203m). There are superb views to the S of Kimmeridge Bay and Clavel Tower. The tower was built in the 1820s as a summer house but is now just 4m from the ever-eroding coastline.

Pass through a gate on to a minor road and go R then immediately L and then R to begin the ascent of Smedmore Hill and eventually on to Swyre Head, ascending about 100m since the road. There are fantastic views to the R and these just about compensate for the pain of the climb! Take a well-earned break at the S end of the track. There's a seat for the more sensible members of the group to use whilst the "boys" go off to play on the hump (location 5)!

After a suitable rest, about turn and head off NE on a track that descends to meet a road. Turn R and continue generally downhill to Kingston for lunch at the "Scott Arms" (note: if you are lucky; at the time our ride, the pub was closed for refurbishment). The route continues generally E/SE on the B3069 1.3km. Turn R on to a minor road signposted to Worth Matravers. In the village, immediately on the L before a road junction, there is another pub, the "Square & Compass" which will provide a reasonable pint but a dismal food selection! When we visited, the choice was Sausage Pie, Cornish Pasty or crisps! However, any port in a storm...!

Our original plan was to continue E to pick up the Priest's Way and onward through a Swanage housing estate and Swanage itself, about another 7 miles before getting back to the car. However, the brain-numbing effect of the drink kicked in and we decided on an alternative route.

Retrace your route back, heading N, to the B3069 and continue straight across on to a bridleway which drops down firstly through a grassy field and then down a very rocky narrow track which takes some skill to stay on the bike with all the jarring! Watch out for thorns if the farmer has been hedge trimming! Pass under the railway line and climb to the main A351 Corfe - Swanage road. Continue straight across through a field. This is difficult riding as it had been churned up by the cattle. At the farm, bear slightly L and continue uphill to a minor road. Turn L and then R in about 300m on to a track and climb steeply to the mast on the ridge. Do not pass through the gate but turn sharp R and pick up the route ridden in the opposite direction earlier in the day.

The route back to the car is now obviously and after 2 thigh-burning kilometres, its a superb whizz down to the road and then just a few metres more back to the car.

A superb ride through superb scenery.

Please send any comments to alan@mtb4fun.co.uk. Thanks!

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